Understanding the Production of Weft Knitted Fabrics

Weft knitted fabrics can be categorized as single or double jersey ("double-knit") based on whether they are knitted with one or two sets of needles. We utilize corresponding circular knitting machines to produce single jersey or double jersey fabrics. It may be advantageous to group some of these fabrics separately, such as underwear and specialty fabrics. Fabrics like pelerine eyelet, sinker wheel mesh structures, and float plated fabrics are commonly used for underwear, while high pile and plush fabrics are considered specialty fabrics.

The majority of weft knitted fabric in continuous lengths is produced on large-diameter, multi-feeder, latch needle machines and then slit into open width during the finishing process. The focus is on achieving productive efficiency and maintaining quality control throughout the manufacturing, finishing, and conversion processes. This often leads to the establishment of large-scale production units with extended production runs.

During post-knitting handling operations, it's essential to maintain the fabric in a relaxed and tension-free state to minimize issues like dimensional distortion and shrinkage. Besides standard processes like scouring, bleaching, dyeing, and printing, finishing techniques offer various methods for modifying the properties of the knitted structure. These include heat setting, stentering, decating, rasing, cropping, pleating, and laminating.

In the cutting room, fabric lengths are layered onto long cutting tables, often several ply thicknesses deep, using a traversing carriage to transport and position the fabric. Cutting techniques vary, ranging from manually following marked lays with cutting knives to using press cutter blades shaped to the garment's outline or computer-guided cutting blades.

When assembling weft knitted fabric, the lockstitch seam is less preferable compared to woven fabrics due to its limited extensibility. For jersey wear, the double-locked chainstitch provides the necessary stretch. However, in knitwear construction, the three-thread overlock is favored for its extensibility and secure binding of cut edges, achieved after precise trimming.

For enhanced comfort in underwear and lingerie, a flat-butted seam secured by a flat seam like the five-thread flat lock is commonly favored. This seam type not only ensures a smooth finish but also enhances wearer comfort, making it an ideal choice for intimate apparel.

In conclusion, the production of weft knitted fabrics involves a multifaceted process that encompasses knitting, finishing, and assembly. By prioritizing productive efficiency and quality control at every stage, manufacturers can ensure the delivery of high-quality fabrics that meet the diverse needs of consumers. From standard processes like scouring and bleaching to specialized techniques like heat setting and pleating, each step plays a crucial role in shaping the final product. With a focus on innovation and attention to detail, the weft knitted fabric industry continues to evolve, offering an array of fabric options tailored to various applications and preferences.